3 recipes

4 to 6 servings (makes 30 to 32 ounces)

These silky, wide ribbons of pasta are at once rustic and refined.

韩国半永久纹眉

At Centrolina in D.C., they are featured in a dish called Ceci e Tria, featuring fresh and cooked chickpeas.

You’ll need a pasta rolling machine. See the NOTE, below, for cooking directions.

“00” flour is a soft Italian durum wheat flour, available at some grocery stores as well as Italian specialty markets.

MAKE AHEAD: The pasta dough needs to rest in the refrigerator for 1 hour (before rolling). The cut, uncooked pasta can be covered and refrigerated for up to 1 day, but it is best when cooked and served within a few hours.

From Amy Brandwein.

Ingredients

2 cups buckwheat flour

2 cups 00 pasta flour (see headnote)

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

2 large eggs

1 tablespoon olive oil

1 1/4 cups water

Semolina flour, for storing

Steps

Sift the buckwheat and 00 flours and the salt into a mound on a clean work surface. Use your hands to make a well at the center.

Combine the eggs and oil in the well; use a fork to lightly beat them, gradually incorporating flour from around the edges of the well. Gradually add the water; keep whisking with the fork to incorporate more flour. Once the mixture becomes too stiff to work with a fork, knead with both hands to form a dough that is no longer sticky.

Form into a ball; wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for 1 hour.

Divide the rested dough into 4 equal portions. Working with one portion at a time (and keeping the rest under plastic wrap), flatten it just enough to fit through the widest setting of the pasta rolling machine. Feed the dough through three or four times, folding and turning the pasta until it is smooth and uniformly wide. (You might wish to cut the sheet of dough in half for easier handling once it becomes long.)

Decrease the setting by one notch; feed one end of the pasta through. Repeat, decreasing the setting by one notch each time until you get to the penultimate notch. (The last setting is too thin.)

Sprinkle semolina flour evenly over the rimmed baking sheet.

Transfer the thin pasta to the baking sheet; cover with plastic wrap or a clean kitchen towel. Repeat with the remaining portions of dough.

Working with one sheet at a time (keeping the rest under cover), cut each one into 1-by-5-inch strips. Transfer to the baking sheet and cover with plastic wrap. Repeat with the remaining pasta sheets. (Scraps can be gathered and rerolled once; the resulting pasta may be slightly tougher.)

The pasta is ready to cook, or it can be refrigerated, covered, for up to 1 day.

NOTE: Bring a pot of generously salted water to a full boil over high heat. Shake off any semolina that may be sticking to the pasta; drop the pasta into the water. Once the water returns to a boil, cook for 1 minute. The pasta will float to the top. Drain and use right away.

Nutrition | Per serving (based on 6): 350 calories, 12 g protein, 64 g carbohydrates, 5 g fat, 1 g saturated fat, 60 mg cholesterol, 125 mg sodium, 3 g dietary fiber, 0 g sugar

Pasta With Chickpeas (Ceci e Tria)

4 servings

This rustic yet refined dish is popular at Centrolina Osteria and Market in CityCenterDC. Anchovies and crushed red pepper flakes give it a subtle kick.

If you have the time, cook your own chickpeas, starting with dried/peeled ones. They’ll yield the tenderest, least bitter result.

At this time of year, fresh, green chickpeas are available at some Asian supermarkets, as well as at some Whole Foods Markets. Dried, peeled chickpeas are available at Mediterranean markets and via gourmet purveyors online.

MAKE AHEAD: Dried, peeled chickpeas need to be soaked overnight before they are cooked; they can be cooked and refrigerated a day or two in advance. The fresh chickpeas can be cooked and refrigerated a day or two in advance.

From Amy Brandwein, chef-owner of Centrolina Osteria and Market in CityCenterDC.

Ingredients

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 cloves garlic, thinly sliced

8 oil-packed anchovy fillets

1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

1 pinch crushed red pepper flakes

1 cup cooked or canned, no-salt-added chickpeas (rinsed and drained if using canned; see headnote and NOTES)

1/2 cup fresh green (shelled) chickpeas, cooked (see headnote and NOTES)

Kosher salt

(see accompanying recipe)

1 tablespoon unsalted butter

Freshly ground black pepper

2 tablespoons (1 ounce) freshly grated pecorino-Romano cheese, for garnish

Steps

Combine the oil, garlic and anchovies in a large saute pan. Cook over medium heat for about 30 seconds; once the garlic becomes golden, stir in the parsley, crushed red pepper flakes and both kinds of chickpeas, gently mashing about half of the chickpeas, if desired. Reduce the heat to medium-low; cook for a few minutes, stirring once or twice, until the chickpeas are warmed through and the anchovies have dissipated.

Meanwhile, bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the pasta (shaking off any excess semolina flour, as needed); once the water returns to a boil, cook for about 1 minute, then drain, reserving 1/4 cup of the pasta cooking water. Immediately transfer the pasta to the saute pan, along with the butter and the reserved pasta cooking water. Toss to combine; taste, and season lightly with salt and pepper.

Transfer to a warmed serving bowl; sprinkle the cheese over the top. Serve right away.

NOTES: To cook peeled, soaked chickpeas, place them in a big pot; cover with at least 5 inches of water. Bring to a boil over high heat, then reduce the heat to medium and cook uncovered for about 90 minutes, until they are tender yet have a slight resistance when you bite into them. Drain and cool before using.

To cook fresh chickpeas, boil them in a pot of salted water for 3 minutes; drain and immediately transfer to an ice-water bath to cool and preserve their bright-green color. Drain before using.

Nutrition | Per serving: 580 calories, 20 g protein, 86 g carbohydrates, 17 g fat, 4 g saturated fat, 85 mg cholesterol, 480 mg sodium, 8 g dietary fiber, 3 g sugar

Roasted Asparagus With Pickled Radishes and Yogurt Sauce (Bassano)

4 servings

Centrolina chef-owner Amy Brandwein was so charmed by her visit to the annual asparagus festival in Bassano del Grappa, Italy, that she created this piquant dish.

You’ll need a clean 1-quart jar.

MAKE AHEAD: The radishes need to marinate for at least 24 hours and can be refrigerated for up to 2 weeks. The yogurt sauce can be refrigerated in an airtight container for up to 2 days.

From Amy Brandwein.

Ingredients

For the pickled radishes

1 tablespoon kosher salt, plus more for the cooking water

2 pounds watermelon radishes, cut into 1/8-inch slices

1 cup white wine vinegar

1 cup water

1 cup sugar

4 shallots, cut into small dice

1 bay leaf

For the sauce

2 cloves garlic, minced

1 cup Greek-style yogurt, preferably full fat

1/2 cup creme fraiche

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh mint

1 tablespoon finely chopped fresh basil

1 tablespoon finely chopped flat-leaf parsley

Finely grated zest and juice of 1 lemon

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

For the asparagus

2 bunches thick asparagus

3 tablespoons olive oil

Finely grated zest of 1 lemon

Finely grated zest of 1 orange

Kosher salt

Freshly ground black pepper

Steps

For the radishes: Fill a large mixing bowl with ice and cold water.

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil over high heat. Add the radish slices; cook for 15 seconds, then use a Chinese skimmer or slotted spoon to immediately transfer them to the ice-water bath to cool. Drain, then transfer to the jar.

Combine the tablespoon of salt, the vinegar, water, sugar, shallots and bay leaf in a large saucepan; bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Cook for about 2 minutes, stirring, until the sugar has dissolved. Remove from the heat; pour over the radish slices in the jar. Let cool to room temperature, then seal and refrigerate for at least 24 hours (and up to 2 weeks).

For the sauce: Whisk together the garlic, yogurt, creme fraiche, mint, basil, parsley and lemon zest and juice in an airtight container until well blended. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Cover and refrigerate until ready to use (up to 2 days).

For the asparagus: Position oven racks in the upper and lower thirds of the oven; preheat to 425 degrees. Have two rimmed baking sheets at hand.

Trim off and discard the woody ends of the asparagus. Rinse the spears in cool water and arrange them in a single layer on the baking sheets. Drizzle them with the oil, turning so they are evenly coated, then toss with the citrus zests and a good sprinkling of salt and pepper. Roast (on the upper and lower racks) for 10 to 15 minutes, stirring the asparagus every 5 minutes and rotating the sheets from top to bottom and front to back halfway through; the vegetables should be lightly browned and tender when they’re done.

To serve, transfer the asparagus to a platter. Top with some of the pickled watermelon radishes, then the sauce.

Nutrition | Per serving (asparagus and sauce only): 280 calories, 8 g protein, 8 g carbohydrates, 25 g fat, 11 g saturated fat, 35 mg cholesterol, 90 mg sodium, 2 g dietary fiber, 4 g sugar